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  1. #1
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    Default What is attacking my leafs?

    I have a developing issue. What I am seeing is the oldest leafs yellowing and showing spots necrosis far too early in the plants growth. I have been plucking them in hopes of getting ahead of anything and not having any luck. 400 Mh bulb and ambient temps are upper 70's They should be seeing a near 0 PPM R/O water. Brand new fox farm happy frog media, new cups ect ect. These girls are just not happy dancing with the frog ATM I allow plants to dry out between watering and let them bottom water when they do get it. Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Shadbot 4.20 Shadimar's Avatar

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    To me, it looks like the root system is asking for a transplant.
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    I wouldn't consider them root bound at all far from it, they have just engaged the full cup with roots. I will normally wait to transplant when I need water them everyday.I am trying to get as much rootball as possible so they will thrive outside unattended.
    I need to have my water tested to assure what I do have and do not have in the water. Running a R/O system that should take out all the BS my municipal water has in it. At the tap the Ph sees 9.0 regularly. The happy frog is supposed to have ph buffer in the mix so trying to avoid adding anything.

  4. #4
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    Possible ph issue locking out some nutrients maybe? Or a cal mag, nitrogen deficiency.

    LT

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    I didn't mean that they were rootbound, but rather that they may have eaten up the nutrients available to them which is why the nitrogen is being moved from the lower leaves.

    I'm looking at it from an organic perspective though, where I mix in all the nutrients beforehand, so if you're feeding them nutrients when you water than N deficiency is probably not the cause and the pH may be out of bounds.

    Are you growing organically or with fertilizer, and do you feed when you water or mix it into the soil?
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    These are in commercially available Fox Farms' Happy Frog potting mix. https://foxfarmfertilizer.com/item/h...ting-soil.html
    They are only a couple weeks old from seed. Nothing other then plain R/O water. I have plans to take a water sample in to Culligan and see what their tests show.

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    I think a call is in order tomorrow to their support, one of the reasons I went with this mix was to eliminate other variables, KISS or so I thought.

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    Oh, ok. I guess I thought they were older due to the close ups. If they're only a few weeks old then those cups are fine for that age.

    Did you add any lime? The HF should have it mixed in already, it's probably the pH buffer they mention, but you may want to top-water and check the pH of the runoff to make sure everything is in order. If it's off you can top-dress and water it in - you'd see results in days if it were the issue.

    Otherwise, the castings and guano in the HF are both often low in nitrogen (it doesn't specify which guano and most are 0 to 1 by NPK) so you may want to add a low dose of hydrolized fish to your water.

    Did you mix in any additional organic fertilizer? The mix would be fine as-is for low-demand houseplants, but cannabis is hungry.
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    In this case the plants are telling me that something is amiss and they not handling what is currently available. I have not added anything.
    Correct me if I am wrong... my R/O unit should remove all the chlorine, and chloramine does it strip out the rest of the BS the municipal water source adds? Will that lower the at the tap PH in the 9's back to neutral? Never have I had so much trouble with starts and this is putting me WAY behind. Failure is not an option!

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    It does strip out most of what's in the water, including the carbonate that buffers the solution.

    Pure water is at a pH of 7 but I've never found my RO unit to produce that.
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    I didn't want to waste the membrane and other filters. I was about to put new in but the ones in haven't had much usage. I need find a 1/4 inch flow meter so I can keep track exactly how many gallons are going through the R/O. Sounds as if I am back to drawing water up and PH'ing down Had thought I could get away without it running the R/O unit. I hope this is something as simple as PH lockout that with an adjustment brings them back into range. However will I not need cal/mag using R/O water?

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    Shadbot 4.20 Shadimar's Avatar

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    I don't use the RO anymore since I'm on a well now, but when I did use it I still had to fix the pH.

    Alternately, enough lime seems to buffer the soil to the point that water pH is almost irrelevant. If you have any on hand, I'd top dress and water it in, it won't hurt anything if pH isn't the issue and if everything greens up in a few days you'll have your solution.
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    My only experience with lime is putting it down the outhouse back in the day. You'd think living in the one of the largest/richest limestone deposit I'd have used it. I have a TSC and a rural king so between the two hopefully I will find it.

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    Wouldn't I want a powdered form? https://www.ruralking.com/espoma-675-lb-garden-lime-gl6 pelletized sounds like it would be for amending the media

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    Yeah, you'd want powdered dolomite lime. Dolomite is Calcium-Magnesium carbonate and is usually the rock used unless they mention calcitic lime. Calcitic lime is fine, but cannabis is magnesium-hungry due to how much chlorophyll it produces so that's why we prefer dolomite.

    You can find it at a hardware store or a place like Tractor Supply for around $5 for 50lbs of what I call rock flour and you want the kind that literally looks like flour. TS has it in a big pallet of white paper bags labeled PRO AGLIME in all caps. The plastic-bagged ones are for the lawn and are much grittier and sandier looking.

    I mix it in to my soil ahead of time at a rate of 1-5 TBS per gallon. It's good to let it 'cook' in damp soil for at least two weeks, but that's for optimal conditions and there's no problem applying it directly and immediately since it won't burn the plants (that two weeks is just to give the carbonate time to react).
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    That one is calcitic lime, and it will work, but as I mentioned we prefer dolomite lime so if they have it I'd pay a dollar or two more for the magnesium as this one list MgCO3 @ less than 2.5%
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    I am about to walk down the street with a picaxe and collect some at the local quarry! But then I would need to crush it as well so I am still spinning my wheels.

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    Here's the stuff I'm using:

    $4.49 at Tractor Supply

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    I had the choice of direction and guess I picked the wrong way. I should have gone to the TRactor Supply.
    I am going to go and return this and go the other direction and get what Shad pictured.
    Code:

  21. #21
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    Small world, though, that I just happened to have been to a TSC a few days ago and bought 3 bags of lime. They're still sitting in my living room.
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    So what shad, top dress the youngsters and add 5 tbs per gallon of media in the future? being this is rock flour will it also act like diatomaceous earth?

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    Yes, top dress with about a tablespoon per plant, water it in, and repeat if needed. If pH is your issue then they'll green up in a few days, and if they revert then give them another dose.

    5 TBS is what I've been using to treat acidic soil, 1 is more in line for regular maintenance.

    Since I recycle my soil, some of it has already had a few rounds of liming and it's made quite a noticeable difference.

    I don't think the dust is sharp though, so it won't slice up insect larvae like DE can.
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    Municipal water is a real drag in this situation. 9.0+ on the Ph scale at the tap, has me wondering how long the membrane remains viable in my R/O.

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    Does your manual mention flushing?

    Basically, it runs water over the outside of the membrane out to waste, and this clears some of the aggregate from the filter.
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