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  1. #1
    Embryo Cakes's Avatar

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    Arrow CARBON you can make (not buy)

    If SWIM were going to buy it, a good kind to get is "Super Activated Carbon"; granulated form. Specifically, the Super Activated Carbon that is made with phosphoric acid is said to be very good for air filtering.

    but it is very bad for water filtering because the phosphorus feeds algae into being a massive population.

    regular and activated coconut shell
    Click image for larger version. 

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    To make the activated forms of carbon is done oftentimes by using minerals or things during cooking and or afterwards, like acids, hydrogen peroxide or steam.

    Particulates get lodged on the carbon; most readily in it's cracks and pores; and then the carbon tries to absorb the molecule. it will have varied success at absorbing it and so over time, even if SWIM cleans it, it will clog due to those partial absorbtions.

    Carbon can be used to filter water, alcohol or whatever; carbon is even what they often will use to soak up drugs in SWIM's digestive tract if he has a drug overdose. i guess carbon has an affinity for drugs. SWIM himself is said to be a 'carbon based' life-form.





    Besides diamonds and filters for air or liquids, carbon can also be used for custom artist pencils, additive-free charcoal for the barbeque, fuel for a forge and to make fireworks/arms.

    The idea is to heat the wood in a contained space to a point where the volatile gases are driven from it.

    Listed below are a few TEKs about making it from regular wood; it's quality should be equal to regular fresh water aquarium charcoal but less than "Activated Carbon" and "Super Activated Carbon".

    The wood that will become carbon is piled up. In this picture, the wood pieces appear charred already because they are left over from previous burns.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Since they were previously heated, they will turn to carbon quickly; a small amount of moistened straw is laid on which keeps the fire burning the right amount of time.

    moist dirt goes on the straw and it is lit from the top.
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    Air holes/cracks around the bottom regulate air flow and fire size. a fast fire might not carbonize but also could get too large and be contagious to the wood.
    If the air flow is right and the heat is right, SWIM should see some variously colored smoke coming from the pile; like the bolded part in this next TEK:

    ~A clean 55 gallon metal drum with the lid cut off roughly

    ~Enough seasoned wood to fill said drum, chopped into big fist-size pieces (OK, say 5"x5", and the wood just needs to be a couple months seasoned, although the dryer the wood, the faster the process..)

    ~A bag of sand

    ~3 or 4 bricks

    ~A case of beer (optional)

    ~Time and patience

    Start by punching/cutting 5 holes on the bottom of the drum which are each 2" square. Try to keep them towards the center. Put the drum down on the bricks so the holes face the ground; placed so it is off the ground and then fill it with the wood. Start a fire in the drum. When it is going well, put the top back on to reflect back the heat. Since it was cut off roughly, there will be slight gaps to allow the a draft.

    Now, turn the whole thing over, placing it back onto the bricks. This is where SWIM might need the case of beer to convince several men to help him lift the sucker. It will be heavy and extremely hot; so hopefully SWIM has a good plan and the men are now too drunk to question him. Once the barrel is turned the fire will now be below the wood and sending heat up through it.

    Wait and consume more beer as necessary. *while we are waiting i will say that although i have not tried this tek yet, i have burned in a barrel before and you do not have to put it up on bricks; the ground and a circle around it should be cleared to dirt though. also you should always have a hose and shovel when burning and not do it on a windy day..ok back to the beer and fire...*

    The smoke will start out white. This is the water vapor burning off. Next the smoke will go blue/grey which is the alcohols and phenols burning off. Then the smoke appears yellow, which is the tar burning off. Finally the smoke will clear and SWIY will just see waves of heat.

    carefully remove the bricks out from underneath. Take the sand and make a pile around the bottom lid, plugging up the bottom draft. Also, cover the top with either a piece of turf or a large piece of metal. Use the sand to seal around the turf/metal so no air can get into the drum<<trying for a closed system here so the fire will go out. If air/oxygen/fire-fuel DOES get into the drum, the charcoal will just burn up. Not what is wanted. Also, try not to let the sand fall down into the drum through the holes.

    Allow the drum to cool (2-3 hours). Then turn back over, pry off the top and remove the charcoal. If there is a spark, the charcoal may "catch", but just douse it with some water.
    In both the above TEKs the volatile gases escaped upwards but those gases can be ignited if an open flame is close enough. SWIM will see no colorful smoke if the volatile gases are ignited but he can see if the ignition is extinguished<<and that way he knows the gases are done escaping.
    invert 2 empty cans into each other.
    a 48 oz juice can and a 28 oz canned tomatoes can
    (the smaller fits into the larger with a nice tight fit ... open ends face each other).
    fill the small can with wood,
    fit its open end into the large can's open end and toss the unit into clay chimnea (or fireplace).
    The wood "cooks" inside the cans and after several minutes can see a ring of flames (burning gases) where the two cans meet.
    When the flames stop (in a half hour or so) the wood is "cooked".
    When the fire cools take out the cans, open them and voila...charcoal
    this next dude is cooking over the flames/ignited gases:
    Ravi Kumar, an innovator in south India, has developed a small stove on which SWIM can cook a meal and produce charcoal while doing so. SWIM collects waste plant material, dries it and puts it into the unit’s circular casing, which is then sealed to prevent oxygen getting in. To start with, a few sticks are burned in the central void. When the surrounding plants heat up they emit gases through small holes into this void. The gases ignite and continue to burn for over an hour, long enough to cook a meal. Finally the plant material, which is now charcoal, is raked out.
    i can just imagine SWIM baking his brownies over pot stems and then using the carbon for his next grow. LOL

    this next guy is making charcoal for his own fireworks:

    cut a 5x8 hole in the bottom-side of a 32 gallon drum. scrap wood will be fed through this hole into a fire.

    a 5 gal can will be inside the bigger drum. the 5 gallon can will sit above the fire. it needs a welded grate or firebricks to sit on.

    The 5 gal can was first burned in the furnace to remove any paint, asphalt roofing cement, plating or other undesirable contaminants. Of course, the gasket in the lid also is burned up in the process.

    A couple of 1/4" holes were drilled in the bottom of the can. the holes face where the fire will be.

    and then the five gallon can got loaded with grape vine. The lid was held in place by using about 6 of the securing tabs.

    The fire gets built and the 32 gal lid was used as a damper and to help hold the heat in. More wood was loaded into the fire.

    After about 45 min the grape started breaking down, in the absence of oxygen, and the steam and flammable gases began to escape from the vent holes in the bottom of the can. This gas jet is directed at the hot coals/flames and really adds to the intensity of the fire with a very noticeable blow-torch sound which lasts about 10 min. Flames are also present around the lid.

    After the escaping gases/flames stopped, continued the cooking for another 5 min, just to be sure all the wood was converted to charcoal.

    The 5 gal can was removed, cooled down and then opened. Perfect, black, hard grapevine sticks. These crush much easier than mesquite.

    3632 g of grapevine yielded 709 g of charcoal in one 5 gal bucket. The volume in the bucket decreased by about 30%.

    5 loads yielded enough to convert into one 5 gal can of moderately crushed grapevine charcoal.

    There were no traces of ash or uncarbonized wood in any of the 5 batches.
    The grape vines were used for their hardness/special properties wanted for certain fireworks. coconut shells are hard and so are the pits/stones of fruit. In air filters, using a high density wood can make carbon with 'greater volume activity' and normally indicates better quality activated carbon<<i think this means it is like a super dense black hole and sucks things in better than lighter materials.

    but a softwood would get different sized pores; like sawdust and peat. Using different types of carbon in one filter can give a wider spectrum of coverage.

    This next man says hardwood and softwood can be processed at the same time; his pieces were small though and it might count. Doug is making pencils:

    Doug makes his charcoal in a steel teapot that was once glass coated. Its volume is about one-half gallon. He loads it, places it on a back-pack type camping stove (just a burner screwed to a propane tank) and cooks the wood in the teapot with the lid on. As a result of destructive distillation, flammable gases are emitted from the spout. As the cooking is in progress he lights a match to the gases coming out of the spout and knows that the charcoal is done when the flame is gone.

    With this method he can make charcoal pencils for an entire class of students about 15 to 20 minutes before class. Usually students come early to see the charcoal being made. Later they bring their own wood samples and experiment with different types of wood to find the charcoal of their preference.

    WARNING. Keep clear of all combustible objects, fumes, and vapors.

    PLEASE BE CAREFUL. This process requires adult supervision. Use common sense.

    Doug said to follow these safety guidelines:

    (1) This process must be done out of doors on a concrete slab or brick surface.

    (2) The only safe materials to roast are wood and naturally grown products.

    (3) DO NOT remove the lid of the retort until the stove is turned off and the flame from the spout or vent has extinguished itself.

    (4) The retort is HOT. You must give it time to cool before unloading it. (Do NOT try to cool it down with water.)

    NOTES:

    Doug says it is easier to get good results with a smaller pot than with the half-gallon pot that he uses. In a larger pot, the process may not always run to completion, particularly if the heat is inadequate.

    Hardwood and softwood can be processed simultaneously in the same retort.

    Doug does not recommend trying to make charcoal or drawing material from anything but wood. Some synthetic materials could be explosive or produce toxic fumes.
    Thanks Doug! SWAN found charcoal to work well for drawing on either wet or dry cement.

    Doug's method took only 20 minutes or so; his batch was small. the other TEKs quote longer times depending on their batch/wood sizes.

    carbon will not work for filtering if it is too old, too dirty or if the air is too warm or too humid. SWIM would have to replace it, clean it or maybe cool or dehumidify the air; or switch to a different filter system (like maybe an ONA system).

    re cleaning carbon. i have read two methods:

    one for fish tank filters. boil for 15 minutes and then rinse in cold water for five minutes; the super heat makes the carbon release it's attracted contaminants and then the cold makes the charge switch back to being attractive.

    two is just a bake in the oven with no cold water rinse. i read it in an alcohol filtering text. but it needs close attention due to the contaminants are released at a temperature that is only 50c different from the temp the gaseous contaminants will ignite at. it might be best if it was superheated by using one of the above outside texts; because an open flame in a gas oven or a hot coil in an electric oven sounds real dangerous/source of ignition.

    due to smelly things are being cast off, the cleaning process will smell.

    and a last thing to remember about carbon air filters>>for the carbon to work, the air needs to be pulled across it slow enough for particulate bonding to occur. It is no use if the air flow is too fast. If SWIM's strong fan is not working properly, it may be better to increase the amount of carbon rather than increasing the amount of air flowing over the carbon. there are TEKs about how to attach a fan speed controller. SWIM can find it in the OGfaq along with other filter making/ventilation/cultivation texts:

    http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/G...c%20Topics.htm

  2. #2
    PurpleDayPeople Kalidi's Avatar

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    WOW thats interesting
    THanks
    "Although I may appear to be spacing out I am really quite focused on my hallucinations" Chuck*

  3. #3
    Theraputic Cannabis Dominatrix pflover's Avatar

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    heh the fire might be a bit suspicious in some city places but great post! thanx!
    Regestered PDX area TC-caregiver for 2, housewife.

    Mugen: [after finding a bag of coins in the river] We hit the pot, Jack!
    Fuu: That's jackpot!
    Mugen: All I know is we're filthy bitch!
    Fuu: Filthy rich!
    Jin: I hope your doing that on purpose.

    PRESERVE NEURAL PLASTICITY!!!

    Anit harm none...

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