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soaring2high
04-07-2006, 01:37 PM
I wanted to share with TY'ers the new breakthrough on heating for a Homemade Volcano.
I purchased a handheld 1500W heatgun from harborfreight.com that was on sale for $9.99us. It has the heat settings of 630F and 1000F. Now thats way too high and the reason that most homebuild peeps pay $200 for a digital adjustable gun.
I then purchased from Walmart a male grounded electric plug $2.95 and a female grounded electric plug $2.95 and a dimmer switch that rotates to adjust the power $3.65. Next I purchased a $2.89 meat thermometer.
I had some three wire romax electric wire, which is needed too about 6".

I wired the plugs, black wire power, white wire neutral, and green wire ground. Then I cut the black and green wire in the center and added the dimmer with wire nuts which is two black wires and a green.

I then plugged the dimmer wire in the wall and the heat gun in the dimmer plug turned the gun on(on high) and turned the dimmer on and took the meat thermometer to the output end of the gun and started adjusting the dimmer untill it went to 180F degrees and 200F degrees which from my reading I beleave is the temps for vaperizing.

Basiclly the gun was bearly running compaired to the high and low switch.

Looking back; I would have purchased the dimmer that turning the knob changes the dim and pushing on it turns it on and off. The one I bought turns on and adj. with turn. My reason is to leave the dim adjusted to the heat I want then pushing it on and off so I can save the setting.

$22.43 + tax and + shipping for the gun. A far cry from $200.00us for just a gun.

Next I will be purchasing a Volcano valve set.

I will be working on my own valve set after I see whats needed. Eventually I would like to make a TY Vape of it's own to help the cost of running TY.

Please add any comments to help in this test. This is a test and only a test.

LadyTokin
04-07-2006, 03:11 PM
very nice. I am going to try this one just because I'm curious. Yours sounds better with the heat adjustment but I'm not that electrical savvy. I'll show it to LordT though and maybe he can handle it. Thx for the post :D.

http://www.a1b2c3.com/drugs/mj020.htmThe Carp's Easy Vaporizer

First you will need the following materials:

-- A soldering iron
-- Flat piece of wood (any wood about 1/2 inch thick...at least 8 inches X 8 Inches)
-- Wooden Dowels (long at least 22 inches and about 1/2 inch diameter)
-- A plastic 2 liter bottle (the kind with the black part on the bottom)

Procedure:

First cut the flat wood into a triangle with equal 8 inch sides (60 deg. angles)

Second Stain and varnish the wood (or polyurethane).

Choose one side of the flat triangle to be the top Find the exact center of the triangle and mark it on both top and bottom.

Choose a drill bit size such that the soldering iron handle can be set into the hole created by the drill and have the rim on the top (handle end nearest the element) sit on it so it doesn't fall through.

Drill with this size bit through the center of the triangular piece.

Turn the triangular piece over and mark 3 spots each about 1 inch from the vertex each angle.

Drill through each of these at a 15 degree angle with the smallest bit that the size dowel you have will fit into (snug is good).

Turn the triangular piece to the top.

Pull the plastic bottom piece off of the 2 liter bottle Cut out the middle of this piece (the indented middle part).

Place the black piece over the hole in the center of the wooden triangle and put a two nails through it into the wood.

Use Hot Glue (or better Silicon sealant) around the bottom of the black piece and fill in any cracks in it made in the removal from the bottle.

Place some wood glue in each of the holes on the bottom of the triangular piece.

Put a dowel in each of these holes and gently tap them with a hammer to set them (then let the glue dry).

Put the soldering iron power cord through the hole in the middle (trim the plastic if you have to).

Pull the soldering iron through so that it rests on the base...sticking up into the air.

Cut out the bottom of the 2 liter bottle (make a nice hole as big as you can but so that it still will go into the black piece and fit (leave some of the curved bottom).

That’s it...now just fashion a bowl and your all set.



Fashioning The Bowl
Depending on what soldering iron you use the bowl making is a little different. I usually use a more expensive iron where the tip screws on. It has the threads on the element (like a screw) and the soldering tip had threads like a nut (inside).

When this type is used the bowl is easy to make. There are two ways I have had success with. The first is Tin foil. Just wrap tin foil around the threads where the tip would go and make a little bowl (small bowl is good...like maybe 1/2 an inch diameter).

Heated tin foil is not a healthy thing to breathe, so the suggested bowl would be similar to the one described below.

The next way to make a bowl for this type is to buy a thimble (size 9 works nice). It must be a metal thimble! Take the thimble and make a hole in it (the top) work the hole till it is the size of the threads on the soldering iron. Now try to put it on. If it is too loose then take it off and wrap a few layers of tin foil around the threads and try again (this will tighten it up).

If you use the cheaper soldering irons (the ones where the tip screws in rather than on) then try leaving the tip on and using a larger thimble (much larger).

Using The Vaporizer

Pack the bowl with herb (pack it good) and put the bottle over the soldering iron and place it in the black piece.

Plug it in watch carefully and as soon as you see a white cloud coming up, then unplug it (or else it will get too hot and burn the herb) and wait for it to build up.

Unscrew the cap, push up on the soldering iron (from the handle) and take a hit, replace cap and iron, let it fill, and hit again. Unpack with tweezers and repack (the bowl is small so ya have to repack a lot)

Notes:

Initial warm up can take up to 5 min. Plug in the iron and leave it on (uncovered and not packed) for a while before first use (you will see why).

You may need to pack it 3 or 4 times for 1 joints worth but I have seen 3 people get stoned off their asses with this little bit (I could not stand after that).

If the bottle is deforming from the heat then it is too hot (don't leave it on so long) Enjoy!

Green Medicine
04-07-2006, 05:09 PM
Just a warning: No dimmer can take 1500 watts resistive load without EXTREME DANGER! FIRE!

The dimmer will overheat and likely catch fire.

The heatguns from Harbor Freight are insulated with ASBESTOS FIBERS and also give out metal ions form the heater. Very, very unhealthy

I would really consider the risks of this device....fire and lung cancer isn't much fun...

Please be careful.....
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BTW Digital ceramic Steinels' are $150 shipped.

soaring2high
04-07-2006, 10:28 PM
Green machine, your right about the wattage I will have to work on that, I now place it on low (which is about 600w (it's rated for 600w and 898F degrees from leviton nom 057), I will only have it on to fill a bag and will be watching it, for $24.99 I can get a router speed control which can control the gun. About the asbestos, there is none they haven't used asbestos sence 1960 in tools I think, I've had it all apart and it has a ceramic core wrapped with the nychrome wire and ceramic on the outside. I had my electrician look at it and he said that it was really over built not the usual bare essentials.

I'm glad for your concern green machine but I think I'm still on the right tract.
I'm still working on deveolping the $100 Volcano type vape.

Quixotic
04-07-2006, 11:00 PM
Here's a good option to eliminate all the rewiring and such.

http://www.shop.com/op/~Wagner_Digital_Heat_Gun,_Model_HT3500-prod-9583306

Works great. you can pick it up at several building supply stores for 40-50 bucks. I got one at Mernards. My thought is it costs what you would have wrapped up redoing a cheaper model, and still not have the cost of a stinel wrapped up in it.

Q

Quixotic
04-07-2006, 11:02 PM
http://www.treatingyourself.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=20116&postcount=8

Here's a post pflover made of the basic set up. Using the wagner heat gun you'll have aprox 110 bucks in the whole setup.


Q

Green Medicine
04-08-2006, 03:17 AM
Green machine, your right about the wattage I will have to work on that, I now place it on low (which is about 600w (it's rated for 600w and 898F degrees from leviton nom 057), I will only have it on to fill a bag and will be watching it, for $24.99 I can get a router speed control which can control the gun. About the asbestos, there is none they haven't used asbestos sence 1960 in tools I think, I've had it all apart and it has a ceramic core wrapped with the nychrome wire and ceramic on the outside. I had my electrician look at it and he said that it was really over built not the usual bare essentials.

I'm glad for your concern green machine but I think I'm still on the right tract.
I'm still working on deveolping the $100 Volcano type vape.

No Problem....You are on the right track.

However I wouldn't let a stranger or a friend walk in front of a train..SO

I'm just warning those that choose to follow your path to use caution.

I would encourage those that want to get adventurous to call the importer of that gun to find out what's inside. I called Harbor's service line and they told me but I already know..I have that same gun. It's a steal at 10 bucks but it could give you cancer if used for a vaporizor.

It's your thread...I will butt out in just one second.

No matter how thrifty or ingenious the idea is....I don't think it's fair to post a design for something that hurts more than it heals..or is outright dangerous....your post gets read by many and is kept for eternity for others to find and use .. not really good for them...is it?

I feel it's appropriate to notify anyone that the "ceramic" is "impregnated asbestos bearing insulator" (I use the same gun from harbor for electrical work - I buy a lot of cheap tools from them) and releases metal ions and contains VERY TOXIC beryllium copper in the heating element connections.

BTW: Check the rating of that router speed control...it's not rated for a resistive load at all! But hey...it's only a fire or death, possibly a neighbor's baby. (i know....I'm being dramatic and very real!)
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BTW2 The Wagner HT3500 gives off metal ions and is also a health risk...not an ecapsulated ceramic element....

Oh well I'm off to make a few gallons of honey oil in the oven.....got a match? Please be safe and do the homework on safety :)
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buddyh
04-08-2006, 03:37 AM
Listen to GM,
He knows what he's talking about.

pflover
04-08-2006, 07:48 AM
GM do you know anything about the steinel digital readout 1100w heat gun? does it care the same dangers? this is the one offered by vriptech in cali. thanx!

Green Medicine
04-11-2006, 07:00 AM
If it's the Steinel HG 3002 LCD heat gun that has the airflow and temp. dials,
it's the Rolls Royce of heatguns. DuraTherm Ceramic Element.

Just don't get silicone all over it. :)

pflover
04-11-2006, 07:19 AM
so is it "safe" comparied to the others you warned about?

Green Medicine
04-11-2006, 07:38 AM
I think so. No metal ions, or berrylium copper contacts, encased in ceramic....

It's the one that's considered most "safe" except the nozzle is exposed a bit. They make a "cage" for them so that just the opening is un-shielded to prevent burns. They are alos FDA approved for use in edible food production.
Although I've never quite figured out what foods you make with it....shish kabab? Creme Brulee?
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pflover
04-11-2006, 07:40 AM
LMAO good question. marshmellow? LOL

yeah i have a couple burns form my steinel.... live and learn.

Thanx GM :)

jx81
09-04-2008, 04:10 PM
Hi, how is everyone? This is my first post and question, this thread is a little old but was hoping someone could help. I recently picked up a variable heat gun and contacted the company, who said their gun has 4 ceramic cylinders that are attached to a + board with heating coils wrapped around which is wrapped with mica paper. Does this sound safe? Thanks.